麦昆与我(2011)

McQueen and IUP:2024-09-29

演员表剧照影评播出时间结局 主题曲
麦昆与我

评分:8.8 导演:Louise Osmond 编剧:
主演:Detmar Blow
类型:纪录片 / 传记
片长:地区:英国
语言:英语
影片别名:
上映:
IMDb:tt1874620

麦昆与我简介

Alexander McQueen had the kind of fashion genius that only comes around once in a generation. He reinvented the catwalk and created clothes that shocked and thrilled his audience.
  This dramatic and elegantly shot film tells McQueen's story, by examining critical relationships - most significantly with the eccentric stylist Isabella Blow, who was credited with discovering McQueen and making his meteoric rise to the pinnacle of world fashion possible. McQueen and I includes rare footage of McQueen, and unseen interviews with the woman who shared his ambitions and inspiration.
  McQueen's designs were beautiful, savage and revolutionary, erupting from his frenetic imagination. They catapulted him from tough beginnings in the East End to becoming the darling of the catwalks the world over.
  From his first graduation show, the hard-up McQueen found a muse and patron in Blow, an exotic aristocrat with a keen eye for talent who would embark upon a fierce campaign to propel the fledgling designer to the forefront of fashion and for his work to gain the recognition it deserved.
  To Isabella, McQueen was the genius 'who makes clothes fly'. The tempestuous connection between them was of two outsiders attracted by each other's exuberance and rebellious spirit.
  His striking collections and explosive shows quickly earned him a reputation for controversy and he shocked the fashion world. McQueen challenged every convention: with 'bumster' trousers and lunatic asylum shows, with car robots on the catwalk and Kate Moss as a hologram.
  Behind the creative drive of both McQueen and Isabella Blow was a darkness that couldn't be kept in check and that McQueen shielded from the public. In 2007, after repeated attempts, Isabella took her own life. One of McQueen's greatest shows was a memorial to her. Three years later and four months after his latest triumph in Paris - his best show yet according to critics - McQueen tragically echoed Isabella when he committed suicide in February 2010.
  The film-makers for McQueen and I interview friends, models and journalists, as well as his brother and his ex-boyfriend, to discover what McQueen was really like away from the limelight, the pressure that came with his success and how he changed through the rollercoaster years.

简评

天才……即便作为门外汉也可以非常轻易地从这纪录片获得这结论。穿插的时装秀太震撼了(虽然此前已看过一些相关图片),极具颠覆创造的先锋艺术性和戏剧性强烈到非专业人士亦可感受那种奇异却充满生命力的美。那些时尚行业从业人员看过McQueen的秀再去看其他的不会觉得了无生趣么…

比起展出和书,多穿插了很多T台视频(虽然听起来很废话。。。更能get到当年观众的惊吓与经验。他和Isabella看起来都很敏感脆弱的样子,能找到这样的soulmate也算幸运吧。不过说起来gay和女性都算minority,一个事业有成一个被杂志炒鱿鱼,总觉得为Isabella可惜 @2018-03-18 12:14:13

麦昆不仅仅是服装设计师了,他就是艺术家。比同期的那几位高太多了。我的见识有限,觉得他的设计和秀的表现力上,都强于比他年长的还健在的Armani, Karl Legerfeld, Valentino。他跟Chanel, 纪梵希,迪奥同列都丝毫不逊色的。

伦敦东区的穷小子Lee,从裁缝学徒到英伦最成功的天才设计师,他的每个系列都能看到其内心的影子:自负、怪异、敏感、边缘。与其说他是死于重压,我宁愿相信他是被孤独压垮,当伯乐和母亲相继去世,生命已无可留恋。他选择了极为残酷和戏剧化的方式:在衣橱上吊,将死亡表演成最后一场艺术。

1)McQueen和David Bowie一样,自带一种骄傲而自我的temperament,同时对自己的领域极度认真,极度努力,让周围的人忍不住仰视他在做的一切,可他自己并不享受这种仰视。2)看过了他承受的痛苦和他的阴暗面之后,很难轻轻松松说出赞美之词。他创造的一切,正在榨干他的精气神,以及他活下去的热情。3)素材之间的拼接和过度有点生硬,不够流畅,不如17年上映的另一部纪录片McQueen来得舒服。

  • 露易丝·奥斯蒙德 Louise Osmond导演
  • 伊莎贝拉·布罗 Isabella Blow自己
  • 凯特·莫斯 Kate Moss自己
  • 安娜·温图尔 Anna Wintour自己
  • 亚历山大·麦昆 Alexander McQueen自己
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